After my mom was gone, it was just Amirah and me enjoying Spring walks in the city.  I miss it so much.  I can't believe these places are memories, and not my daily life.  

(Taking a baby and a big camera just seemed like too much so I settled for camera photos everywhere we went.)

I also have a dozen pictures of all the food I ate on my excursions, but I'll spare my blog audience from teasing you with delicious flavors from across the ocean.  

Despite having so much to do during my last month in London I tried to get out as much as I could. Of course I wish I had been that active for the entire two years I lived there, but it's hard to be a tourist in real life, when there is laundry and sickness and motherhood to occupy your days, not to mention bills to pay and other demands on time and finances.  So I shelf my regrets and practice gratitude for the amazing chances I did have to enjoy London's charm.    

As my days of independence are winding down I've been trying to get out and enjoy the city as much as I can.  At the end of this week the kids begin a two-week school break, during which I'm hoping to have a baby.  It has been such a pleasure to have these days and moments to myself.  All of these pictures were just taken with my phone, I've gotten pretty lazy about carrying my nice camera around with me.  

4 March - Richard and I have also been trying to make the most of our childless time, since babysitters are hard to come by, and so we've been having lunch dates on Friday.  One particularly sunny Friday after I dropped off the kids at school I decided to walk to his office in Canary Wharf.  I walked through Deptford, along the southside of the river, caught a river boat to cross, and then walked through Westferry Circus (a really pretty little place) to Canary Wharf.  It was all wonderfully pleasant and took me about two hours, so I arrived a little early for lunch.  I sat in the KPMG lobby and listened to my audiobook while I waited for Richard.  

10 March - I had a birthday gift in mind for Eli that I needed to buy at the British Museum, so on another day out I spent a couple hours there in the morning, had lunch alone at Wagamama, and then did some walking in Soho, where I picked up some unbelievably tasty doughnuts at Crosstown, per the recommendation of a doughnut loving sister of mine.  

17 March - It was looking to be another sunny day so I chose a park I found on Pinterest that was located near King's Cross Station.  But upon leaving the station I discovered that I was right by the British Library, which was also on my list of places still to see.  So I went there first, and it was the most fortuitous accident.  I may or may not have made it there if I hadn't stumbled upon it like that, but it was one of my favorite places I've been to.  I only spent an hour there, in the Treasure Gallery, and treasures there were!  

There were original musical scores by Bach, Mozart and others, including the original score of Handel's Messiah.  There was an original Magna Carta.  There were countless religious documents from all faiths, that were hundreds of years old. But my favorite were the original manuscripts from authors like Dickens, Jane Austen, Charlotte Bronte and others.  It was so fascinating to look at their pages, see the phrases they crossed out and changed, and imagine them writing on those very pages, ideas that became famous works of literature.  I couldn't stop smiling.  There was also a really fun Alice in Wonderland exhibit celebrating the books 150 year anniversary.   

From the library I walked to the Camley Street Natural Park, which was green and lovely, but a little bit of a let-down.  But as I walked along the canal, in no particular direction, I stumbled upon something else perfectly delightful.  Granary Square was "opened" in 2012, but it was designed around existing historic buildings, making it a really fun blend of modern and classical.  It is right along Regents Canal, and has coordinated water fountains and restaurants, and aesthetically pleasing landscaping.  I went into Waitrose and bought some almonds and carrots and ate my lunch basking in the sunshine and ambiance, feeling quite lucky to have found it.  

From there I went back to Soho for more doughnuts and a little shopping on Regent's street and then, completely exhausted, caught a train home.  

My heart just bursts with love for London and all she has to offer.  

The kids have a week holiday in the middle of each term, and sadly during their half-term break in February we were fighting a horrible stomach flu.  It took eleven days to work its way through each member of the family, and none of us were spared.  But between the first wave and second wave, when we were naively believing it was finished, we had one good day to go out.  I chose another Adventure on foot and we followed it almost exactly, beginning with the Bank of England Museum.  

The museum was really kid-friendly, I think in fact it's directed almost entirely for children.  It talked about the history of the Bank of England, inflation, the gold standard, and the evolution of British currency.  We were also really lucky that since it was half-term there was a man doing "readings" from The Wind in the Willows.  Kenneth Grahame, the author, was a long-time employee of the Bank of England, and there is an exhibit there to honor him.  The gentleman performing was all dressed up, and did an animated performance of a scene from the book.  It was so great, the kids and myself were all captivated.  Mim and Simon wanted to stay for a second performance but others of us were getting hungry. ​

We walked from the museum to Leadenhall Market, which makes a brief appearance as the entrance to Diagon Alley in the first Harry Potter movie.  We ate lunch there, and a couple really nice women complimented my kids on their great behavior.  You'd never know what good kids they are from the expressions on some of these faces...

After lunch we walked to The Monument, which is a tall Doric pillar that was built as a memorial to the Great Fire of London in 1666.   The monument was begun in 1671 but took six years to build because of a shortage of Portland stone. This caused the king to issue a proclamation forbidding anyone to use this particular type of stone for any projects without the express permission of Sir Christopher Wren, the architect and surveyor of the monument.  

We climbed 311 steps to the of the monument, although Cameron swears he only counted 307.  

After we descended the windy staircase with caution, we went to Patisserie Valerie to pick up the birthday cake I had ordered for myself; the cake that we wouldn't get to eat for two days because of the aforementioned stomach flu...

During the week between Christmas and New Year's, Richard had to spend a day catching up on some online training for work, so I took the kids into the city.  We referred back to our trusty City Walks with Kids (I'm super excited because I just ordered the New York City version.)  and found one that looked fun.  

The first stop was the Tin TIn Shop. Tin TIn is a famous European cartoon character from comics that were published from 1929-1976 by a Belgian cartoonist.  It has been one of the most popular comics of the 20th century in Europe, but apparently never took hold in the U.S.  We bought a Tin Tin comic book, but the kids really didn't know much about Tin Tin or his cute dog Snowy so we didn't stay long in the shop.  

The Tin Tin shop is just around the corner from Covent Garden, where there are always entertaining buskers.  Mim loved this silver lady.  

There is a small creperie in the basement of the market so we went there for lunch.  I've been there a few times, and it was delicious as usual.  

After lunch we went to a couple small toy shops in Covent Garden and the kids used some money they had earned to do a little shopping.  Next we went to the London Transport Museum which is just outside Covent Garden.  All the photos I took in the museum I took with my phone.

The museum was really interesting.  It covered public transport in London for the last 200 years.  It was chronologically organized and had trains and buses and carriages from each era that you could see up close and climb inside.  There was also a children's activity page that the kids punched along the way.  We had a really fun time and stayed a lot longer than I had expected to.  

After we left the museum the kids begged for a snack so we bought some crisps to eat on the tube.  I was discussing with a friend recently about how much our recreational activities revolve around food, and it's so true.  Whenever I'm out with the kids they always want to know when and what we are going to eat.  It's a bit obsessive and I want to try to find a way to change that but I don't have any ideas yet... Part of the problem is ME, I'm no different. I always want food to be involved in anything I do.  

All in all it was a really successful day, of course by the time we are taking the trains home the kids are tired and the excitement is gone and they get cranky and disruptive, whereupon "Mean Mom" comes out.  But we seem to be lasting longer and longer before we hit that breaking point, for which I'm grateful.  

Since we decided not to travel during the kids' school holiday I wanted to make the most of our time by seeing some places nearby.  We have an English Heritage Membership that gets us into sites for free, so I just chose Down House from the website, and it's not too far away so we packed some snacks and drove there.  

I loved it more than I expected to.  It started a discussion between Richard and I about how we can give labels to people, or put them in categories that prevent us from really knowing, appreciating and learning from them.  Growing up as Christians who wholeheartedly believed in Creationism, making few or no allowances for evolution, neither of us ever gave Charles Darwin the time of day.  We associated him with labels like "Godless", and our fears and narrow-mindedness prevented us from admiring him and valuing his work and his contributions to science, as well as his good nature and character as a devoted family man. Of course as children, it's natural to see the world in black and white, and to cling to ideas and beliefs that feel safe and validating.  But I'm grateful that in my adult life I have had college professors, friends, family members and media (ie, books, podcasts, articles) that have helped me consider new ideas and beliefs.  Fear, defensiveness, and a determination to be "right" have been obstacles in my life, and probably continue to prevent me from really wonderful relationships and discoveries.  

Okay, end of tangent. 

Down House was really kid friendly, there was an activity room for the kids, as well as a scavenger hunt of sorts where they had to identify different objects in each of the rooms.  Richard and I took turns helping the kids with their activity and listening to the audio guide.  

The house is also decorated with a lot of original furnishings, and to see the black chair from which Darwin sat while contemplating and writing The Origin of Species had me a bit awestruck.  The Darwins had 10 children, and Charles was an engaged father.  All of the children recalled a happy childhood where their father taught them, read with them and they all loved playing games together.  Charles was also devoted to his wife, respectful of her Christian beliefs, and spent nearly all of his time at home, where he did his research and writing.  But he knew heartbreak, he lost three of his children in their infancy or childhood, and this caused him great suffering.  

There was no photography allowed in the house, so I didn't take any pictures.  When we finished in the house we stopped in the little cafe for a light lunch.  We shared a pasty, a jacket potato and a toastie.  (All so classic British.)  Then we went outside and walked around the gardens.  Despite the glorious sunshine it was quite cold, so we didn't stay too long before retreating to the warmth of our car.  (And the rest of our snacks.) 

It was such a lovely house in a lovely area with lovely gardens, I can see why Darwin lived here for 40+ years.  

On Thursday morning I woke up, showered and dressed and went for a walk alone.  It's the Tony Hall in me I suppose but I love walking in new places.  I stopped at a patisserie and grabbed some things for breakfast.  The two women there didn't speak much English and I speak no French, but they were kind and we laughed and pointed and I tried not to buy every single pastry.  I didn't take pictures at this shop, but I did later on.  

Flowers, motorcycles and bakeries seemed to be the essence of Paris. 

I went back to the hotel, reunited with the gang and off we went on the Metro. First stop- the Louvre!

I always thought of the Louvre as a museum, but that hardly seems like an adequate label. It's more like a fortress and I couldn't figure out any way to get a picture that included it all.  

The structure of the buildings is in a U-shape, surrounding this courtyard, with the glass pyramid as the centerpiece.  We actually entered the Louvre from the underground because of where we got off the metro.  Our first views were of the inverted pyramid in the shopping area beneath the ground.  

Unfortunately, by the time we bought our tickets, used the loo, waited in line at security, and figured out what we wanted to see the kids attention spans were virtually gone.  

So we did a quick walk through the Italian Art on our way to see the Mona Lisa (which seemed obligatory). 

I'm not sure what the groundwork was for my emotional collapse, but standing in front of this painting I lost it. I just started weeping.  Everyone else had gone ahead to the next gallery and I just had this moment.  I am not an artist or knowledgeable about art or anything like that.  But this painting moved me. I'll never forget it. 

By the way- the painting is by Fra Angelico (Guido de Pietro) and it was done between 1450 and 1455.  

We worked our way through the Italian Renaissance galleries, which were not only full of amazing paintings, but the building itself is art. 

It's difficult, nigh impossible, to fully appreciate the Louvre with children, so I'm already planning a trip to Paris without them. Somehow.  Because I know I only dipped a toe in the waters and I'll be so disappointed if I got that close and couldn't see more.  

We left the Musee to find a place for lunch and found a really crowded but cozy cafe and ate our little hearts out.  Gordon and Julie decided to go back to the Louvre to see more, and Richard and I wanted to see Notre Dame.  

Richard and I took turns in Notre Dame.  He stayed at a nearby playground with the kids while I went through, and the I took the kids on a hunt for a public toilet while he went through.  

Just like the Eiffel Tower, the cathedral was bigger than I could have imagined it.  Unfortunately we were there too late in the afternoon to go up into the bell towers, they were already closed.  But I walked through through the main level.  I have a friend from Slovenia who is planning a pilgrimage for next summer with her mother.  She asked me if Mormons do pilgrimages and I wasn't sure how to answer.  In my own life I have traveled with my family to visit places of historical significance in our church, and I have felt the sacred nature of those places.  I suppose that's about the closest I've come to a pilgrimage, aside from periodic visits to LDS temples, where I can worship and feel close to God.  

But it was really neat for me to watch the people enter the Cathedral and see the reverence in their faces.  It was quiet in there, and it was clear that some people were feeling close to God and solemnity for the sanctity of the place.  This moved me as well.  I promise I'm not pregnant but man was I having an emotional day! 

I didn't take any (except one) pictures inside the cathedral because there was just no way to do it justice and I wanted to just be still and respectful.  There were stained glass windows everywhere, beautiful sculptures and statues and so many candles.  It was gorgeous.  Magnificent.  Peaceful.  

After Richard had his turn to walk through we decided to walk down the river, then on to the Arc de Triomphe.  

I have to say that I was so proud of the kids, and grateful.  It was such a long day and we did so much walking.  They were pleasant and cooperative and I think they even enjoyed/appreciated it all.  

The legacy of Queen Victoria and her husband/cousin Prince Albert includes several museums, and the Museum of Childhood became the collection place in the 20th century for all things related to children and family life.  We took the tube to Bethnal Green and spent THREE hours in  the museum.  It was a really fantastic set-up because each exhibit had an interactive space for the kids, which always gave me time to read while they played.   

We were all hungry and thirsty by the time we left the musuem so we stopped at a little market and got some snacks and drinks and took them to the Bethnal Green park.  The kids had fun running around unrestrained- but it made for terrible timing.  We ended up on the Tube during rush hour.  We've done the trains during rush hour before- but only with Richard.  Fortunately people were considerate and accommodating so we managed to get home without losing anyone.  It was hot- but not as hot as the buses.  

When we got home we had cold cereal for dinner because I had a smashing headache and now the kids are in bed and I'm peacefully relaxed in my chair that reclines.  

I still wake up sometimes in the middle of the night and feel completely disoriented.  What is this place? What day is it? Where am I? Why am I so sweaty? 

In Kuna when one of the kids would wake me up with their wailing in the dark of the night, I could recognize the voice, check with the child, and be back in bed without hardly opening my eyes.  My subconscious is having trouble making the transition here.  

Our house is so hot.  Very few buildings have central air conditioning here.  And I don't think many homes do.  People are telling us that this is an exceptionally hot summer, but it seems like people are saying that everywhere, and they are saying it about the winters too.   Anyway, we sleep with the windows open and the curtains up to let the air come in.  But that means the room is in full sunlight before 5:00 am and we get the pleasure of the morning noises.  I actually don't mind the noises so much, particularly the sound of women's heels clicking down the sidewalk, or the new birds I've never heard or the chit chat of the neighbors.  I can also recognize the sound of suitcase wheels rolling down the concrete.   Nearly every day someone on my street is leaving or returning from travels.  

Anyway- this post is really supposed to be about the museum.  

On Friday morning we met the Farmers at the Greenwich playground again.  We let the kids play for awhile but rain was on its way so we headed toward the National Maritime Museum which is right next to the park.  

The museum was full of interesting things but we had trouble keeping the kids interested.  Fortunately they had some interactive/playful galleries.  I told Richard we will have to go back with just Cameron and Eli.  Museums are hard to appreciate if you can't read.  

As we left the museum I was stressed and tired and frustrated.  The kids were getting wild and losing control of themselves, as was I.  At the bus stop I lost my cool and told Mim and Si that they would not get ice lollies when we got home and they fell apart.  So Miriam threw fits the whole way home.  I had opted for the bus because the bus stop was right outside the museum, but then the heat and humidity from the rain just made us all more irritable.   Public transportation loses some appeal when you can't let your child have a tantrum in the privacy of your own vehicle.  I didn't get any dirty looks though, even from the patient man sitting in front of Miriam when she kicked the back of his seat in fits of four year old rage over ice lollies.  

We survived the ride home and as soon as we walked through the door I hosed Mim and Si's sweaty and puddle-jumping bodies off in the bathtub and put them down for naps in their underwear.  Cameron and Eli were banished to the garden and I came down from the ledges of my mind in peace and quiet, vowing to never take the kids anywhere ever again.